Cooking Internship

February 14, 2008

What I Learned At Cafe Flora

Friday was my last night at Cafe Flora. And I'm sad. These few months of sabbatical from my engineering job, immersed in food and life in the kitchen, with all my new friends there, has been a really happy time for me.

Since this was an internship, it is only fitting that I try to write down what I learned. Of course this is only my experience, over a limited period of time at a single restaurant with all of its particularities of people, style, location and size.

I learned to prep hard and fast. Part of this is looking for efficiencies, like gathering all the ingredients you need for a recipe on a single trip to the dry storage, or knowing which projects can be done simultaneously. One recipe can get to a step where it needs a prolonged simmer while you do the chopping for another.

Another factor is repetition. When you small-dice 20 pounds of roma tomatoes by hand a few times a week, your hands just get quicker. Even little things like where you place your compost bucket and the container you are putting the goods in make a big difference.

Probably the biggest part of getting faster is just the desire to give yourself that extra push and try to keep your hands moving as quickly as they can while doing a quality job. That and watching the people around you, picking up on everyone's tricks. You'd be amazed how many ways there are to do even a simple task like filling and rolling the famous Oaxaca Tacos. The end result is the same, but each person has their own special way of doing it faster and leaving less mess to clean up.

I learned the importance of taking responsibility for your own cooking. Most of the time no-one is looking over your shoulder. It is primarily on you to uphold standards of food safety, quality and flavor. You have to do that because you love food and you care about serving it as good as it can be. Likewise when you make a mistake, you've got to own it, talk it over with the sous chef to determine whether to fix it or start over, and move on quickly.

Watching all of the managers and leads do their things, I began to get an idea of the organizational systems required. Some of those systems live on computers, some on clipboards and whiteboards, and many in the minds of the cooks. Especially in a large restaurant with multiple shifts and teams, you have to have good tracking of ingredients and preparations or you can easily end up with menu items that are 86'ed because you didn't make enough, or food that is going to waste because you made too much. Or menu items that you are losing money on because the food costs are too high. Or junky produce because purveyors may give you their less desireable stuff if you aren't firm about checking everything that comes in.

There are also systems that everyone in the kitchen uses, like organizing the walk-in so you know where to look for lemon juice or kale that has been washed and cleaned without having to search the whole place. This will be part of the learning curve in any restaurant, just knowing where to look for a whisk, the rice flour, even a pen or rubberband. It is annoying at first, but there just is no way around having to ask for awhile until you know the place.

In the same vein, I learned that there is almost always a good reason that something is done a certain way. For example, when I first got there I wasn't sure why there was such an emphasis on "downsizing" food as is partially used. (For example, moving the rest of a sauce from an 8 quart to a 4 quart container). It seemed like a waste of time. Why not just leave it in the larger one until we use it up a day or so later? Turns out there are many good reasons - changing the container is good for sanitation, it gives you more space in the walk-in, and it makes it easier to assess your situation so you know if more needs to be made, because you can see at a glance how much is left.

So again the key is asking the right questions, at the right times, and with the right attitude. Ask because you genuinely want to know, not because you assume you know a better way. Ask when someone isn't too busy. Most folks are happy to share what they know if they see that you are genuinely interested. And once in awhile that conversation will lead to you both improving a system or a product.

I learned a ton about how to move and talk in the often-crowded, fast moving kitchen environment. From letting someone know that you are about to go behind them with a knife or a hot pot, to confirming that you are getting the backup supply of Madeira sauce so they can go back to what they were doing, communicating clearly and concisely makes the whole machine flow.

I definitely learned a lot about food. It was really cool to see the creative process of other cooks, and try techniques and flavor combinations that were outside of my well-worn pathways.

I also got a better understanding of what food works in a restaurant setting where large quantities are prepared, tools are different, and final cooking happens on a tight timeframe. Some things just work better at home, and some things are vastly easier to do in a commercial kitchen. For example, very few folks I know will deep-fry at home, but in a restaurant it is trivial to include a fried component in a dish.

One thing I really wanted to do during my internship is try my hand at running a station during service (as opposed to doing prep work). Chef Janine gave me ample opportunity to do this, starting with my very first shift when I worked on the pantry station. I got good at that one, and also can handle lunch and dinner pizza (which also does sandwiches and other grill items), and the lunch line. Dinner line during the rush on a busy night is still a bit out of my comfort zone, but I feel confident that if I worked on it for a week or two solid I'd get my speed up to where I could handle it. All of my fellow cooks were amazingly generous about teaching me the stations and letting me work parts or all of their shifts.

I got to see a lot of the interactions between the front and back of the house. I think Cafe Flora is probably very much on the positive side of that spectrum. The cooks and servers all know each other well and generally get along great. If I have my own place somewhere down the line, that is an attitude I'd strive to keep: we are all part of the same team, working to make sure that the customers are happy and the restaurant is successful.

One of the questions I had going in to this internship was whether I really had what it takes. Did I have a solid foundation of knowledge of food and cooking and culinary common sense? Were my knife skills up to the task? Would I have the physical stamina? Could I even stand on my feet for a full shift? At the advanced age of 41, could I still hang? Would I actually like the day-to-day work as much as I thought? I'm happy to say that the answers to these were yes (at least in my opinion :). I loved going in every day, and I've never felt so physically strong in my adult life.

As in any business, whether you are the owner or the most entry-level employee, the keys to enjoying yourself and reaching your goals are the same. Show up on time. Work your butt off. Do the best work you are capable of and try to do it even better the next time. Stay late. Go above and beyond. Say yes to opportunities and no to the little jealousies or gossip that you find in any workplace. Get to really know the folks you work with, and let them get to know you too.

I think ultimately that is the most important thing I learned. I really loved all the folks I worked with. We have a lot of fun in the kitchen, talking about our lives while we work, listening (and occasionally dancing) to music, and giving each other a hard time. Sharing the hard work, and the sense of accomplishment when it goes well, or when we just survive a long shift. And sharing the love of good food and the curiosity to keep learning about it. To any of my Flora buddies who are reading this, thank yous are not enough, but they are all the words I have.

January 04, 2008

Better Picture of the Dumplings

Greendumplingsinshiitakebroth

I've been promising a better picture of the winter green dumplings, and the review in the Seattle paper finally got me to drag the good camera in and do it. Our sous chef, Lisa, stood the chives up in it to make it "3D"! She's right, it helped the picture a lot.

January 03, 2008

Seattle P-I Review of Cafe Flora (Including the Dumplings)

The Seattle Post-Intelligencer just published a full review of Cafe Flora. (It will be in the Fri. 1/4/08 print edition). We were all very pleased with the positive comments from reviewer Leslie Kelly.

I'd like to tell you I was just mildly happy about her mention of my own contribution to the menu, the Green Dumplings in Shiitake Broth. But I'd be lying.

"The green dumplings managed to pull off a bit of Italian-Asian fusion, as ricotta-filled won tons floated in a lovely shiitake mushroom broth. A shower of Parmesan and lemon zest provided a dramatic finishing flourish."

Honestly that is more than I could have hoped for as icing on the cake of this great internship experience. A dish on the menu and a positive review in the paper! Everyone at Cafe Flora has been so fun to work with, generous with their knowledge, and patient with a newcomer, I'm sad that I only have a few weeks left there.

[where: 2901 E. Madison St, Seattle, WA, 98112]

December 29, 2007

The Sounds of A Restaurant Kitchen

I had an interesting experience yesterday. I was in the kitchen at Cafe Flora, pureeing the lentils, onions and pecans for our pate platter and feeling vaguely irritated with myself for choosing a messy way of dealing with the several batches that needed to go in the robocoupe (a big food processor). I was tired at the end of a long shift and ready to go home and catch a nap before Mini-Me was up and ready for an afternoon of fairy-fireman-spin-dancing. (You'd have to see it for yourself).

Anyhow, I turned off the robo, and suddenly I heard every sound in the kitchen at once. It was one of those strange moments of hyperawareness. Behind me to the left, in the dish pit, I could hear plates banging, the dishwasher running, and accordions on Spanish language radio. In front of me, the brunch crew was prepping for the weekend and the radio was playing the Decemberists on KEXP. From my right came the whing-whing-whing sound of the big Hobart mixer straining to grate parmesan cheese, while a few feet farther was the low whir of a KitchenAid mixer churning icing. And behind me on the right I could hear the crackle of sauteeing while the line cook called orders to the pizza station and passed plates to the intermittent stream of servers coming in and out.

The funny thing was that rather than making me grumpier, all the noise completely lifted my mood. I could feel the whole rhythm of the kitchen as we went about our various tasks, wrapping up lunch service and preparing to hand off to the dinner crew. I felt my sense of place in the larger organism that is the restaurant and it was comforting.

Isn't it cool when those little spiritual moments sneak up on you from nowhere?

[where: 2901 E. Madison St, Seattle, WA, 98112]

December 13, 2007

Winter Green Dumplings in Shiitake Broth - Now Live At Cafe Flora

Greendumplingsinshiitakebroth_2
Winter Green Dumplings Shiitake Broth

Cafe Flora changes much of the menu seasonally, and every few months any of the employees can put up a dish for evaluation by the management team. I offered this dumpling entree and it just went on the menu a couple of nights ago. This is my first dish on a restaurant menu, so I have to say I'm pretty excited about it!

The dumplings are made with wonton wrappers, and filled with a mixture of mustard greens, kale, and ricotta. They are served in a deeply flavored shiitake broth with sauteed slices of fresh shiitake, and garnished with parmesan, extra virgin olive oil, flaky sea salt, lemon zest, and green onions.

I got the idea for this dish because I had some leftover shiitake broth from something completely different, and I was taken with the complex umami flavor. It made me think of a classic Italian tortellini in brodo (broth). But then the specific shiitake flavor lended itself to a Chinese or Japanese interpretation.

I don't normally care for "fusion" dishes, especially when it is done for shock value. What I hope this dish does is highlight the similarities between the cuisines (the wild mushrooms, spicy greens, pasta, and broth), and then pick up a little spin from each (the Italian cheeses and the Asian green onions).

So that's the story! If any of you are in Seattle and get a chance to try it, I'd love to hear you feedback. It is on the dinner menu only, probably for at least a month.

p.s. on 1/3/2008 - The dumplings got a review in the Seattle newspaper.

Cafe Flora in Seattle

[where: 2901 E. Madison St., Seattle, WA, 98112]

November 12, 2007

Welcome To The Weeds

Weeds

Friday night at Cafe Flora, and I'm working the pizza / grill station for the third or fourth shift. The past few times have been pretty straightforward, never more than a few things to make at a time, and plenty of slow moments when I could get my station back together and even help on prep, although the line cooks had plenty of tickets.

Tonight started out much the same, maybe even a bit mellower than usual. A Portobello French Dip here, a Purple Potato Pizza there, no stress. I was wishing I'd get a few tickets to make things interesting. Then K., the expediter says "here's a ticket that is all yours" (which is rare) and hands it to me. Three burgers, all with special requests, and a French Dip. No sweat. Those are easy things to make, you just put them on, set up your plates, and serve 'em up. Let the line cook know when you need them to drop fries. No sweat. "Michael, you need any help"? "Nope, I'm good".

Before I even got those fully on, "Fire a purple (pizza)". Ok. I can do this. "Make that two purple". Surfs up! Get out the dough, and the double pizza peel. The dough has been sticking so use lots of cornmeal. Make the pizzas. Recheck, darn, one is still sticking. Lift it up and put more cornmeal under it. First one goes in the oven fine. Second one sticks. Shove again. Bad move, it bends over on itself and catches on the oven roof. Gonna have to get it out of there and remake.

Just then "Fire two quesadillas and another French with salad". My head is now spinning. I've got a doomed pizza that needs to get out of the oven, a new one to make, plates and garnishes to set for all that other stuff, gotta figure out all the special orders, and I can't even remember what else I haven't fired yet. Don't know what to do next. Realization: this is it, I'm "in the weeds".

Every line cook has been there, many many times. Fortunately, we have a lot of experienced hands in the kitchen and they all know I'm just getting started. I'm actually proud of what I did next. Rather than trying to tough it out and getting in a position where the line cook was going to come up with all her food and I wouldn't have my stuff, I just said "ok, K. I need some help over here". K. jumped in and fixed the pizza situation and made the French while I finished the burgers and five minutes later we were buzzing the waiters and life was back to normal.

So, ok, good. It sucked to be in the weeds. The part I didn't like was that it wasn't simply that it was going to take awhile to make everything. What was annoying was that I was slightly paralyzed, unsure of which thing to try to take care of next or even what all the things I needed to do were. And of course this is a laughably small amount of orders to get in the weeds over. Experienced line cooks often have 5 times as much stuff as that fired at once, and all of it more complex than anything I was making.

But I also have to be realistic with myself. This is all new for me, and I'm going to make mistakes. With more practice I'll understand the interlocking timing of these dishes better and be able to keep the mental to-do list ticking away smoothly. One thing that works in my favor is I have a good internal timer. I know without having to watch a clock when the pizza will be just about ready, and when it will be time to flip a burger or quesadilla. So I just need practice and concentration, and it should get easier. Wish me luck...

November 01, 2007

Working at Cafe Flora, Part 2

(For those of you just joining the program, the internship story starts here.)

So I've been at Cafe Flora for nearly a month now, generally working 4 shifts a week. I thought it would be a good time to take stock and see what has changed since I began, and what I'm learning.

The first couple of weeks, like at any job, were primarily about getting to know people and trying not to screw up anything too badly! I did push a sheet pan into a two-sided rack without looking and knocked some papadums out on the floor, but that isn't an uncommon occurrence. I've seen a number of small accidents of this kind - mushrooms scorched, buckets of stock knocked over and so forth. Everyone is used to there being occasional mistakes and deals with them cheerfully.

Now I pretty much know all the folks that work in the kitchen and many of the front-of-house staff as well. Moving out of the "who is this new guy" phase, which is nice. Everyone has been incredibly supportive of what I'm doing, and happy to show me how to do the million little tasks that make up a day in the life of a restaurant.

There are lots of new things to learn. Where do I look in the storage room for red miso? What is the best (fastest, safest) way to empty a boiling hot 5 gallon stockpot into hotel pans for cooling? Where should I store the collard greens I just cleaned for the brunch crew? If we are out of Port in the dry storage, can I use some from the line to make this sauce? And so on.

Of course so much of restaurant cooking is knowing the good "tricks". For example, I needed to open 12 cans of cranberry juice to make our cranberry-ginger drink. Our sous chef L. showed me how I could open one and leave it upside down to drain in a china cap strainer while I opened the next one. These kinds of things help a home cook as well, but it is that much more crucial when you are cooking for hundreds of customers.

The other night I needed to make gnocchi. When I make them at home I might make 30. At Flora I helped make nearly 1000 (!) one night and then another day I made a few hundred by myself. When you do that many you become very aware, for example, of how the temperature of the dough affects your ability to roll them off the fork. When they get too warm, the tine marks kind of just mush. I also learned that I get better results by putting the piece of dough vertically on the tines instead of laying down like a log. I find this sort of experimentation fascinating.

The same is true of knife work. I'm getting a callous at the base of my index finger from the overhand grip on my blade. It isn't unusual to be chopping for 45 minutes straight if you have a lot of onions or peppers to get through. I want to work on making more consistent and accurate cuts, as well as getting faster.

In a fairly small, fast paced kitchen with sometimes as many as eight folks working at once around shift change time, and waiters and dishwashers coming in and out too, and hot, heavy, and sharp objects in constant use, you have to pay close attention. You have to be sure and say "behind" whenever you pass in back of someone, and if it is really important you shout "hot behind" or "knife behind". You make similar announcements when leaving oven doors open, putting hot trays in racks that others might grab unknowingly, leaving hot pots in the dish pit and so on. And you get used to the tight quarters. While you are chopping away, someone may need the salt from above your head or a lid from below. Depending on the situation you can either just lean to the side and keep going, or step out of the way for a second and jump right back in. Given all that activity, it is a good idea to try and gather a lot of what you need for a recipe or prep job before you start, so that you can kind of settle into a spot and not have to run around behind everyone a bunch of times.

So I guess the big thing now is that I want to transition from focusing on being able to hold my own in the kitchen to being able to do everything better and faster each time. There is a lot of room for improvement! I watch some of the other more experienced folks and they can easily start on 5 prep tasks at once, with everything mentally timed so that the pauses in one job (like waiting for a sauce to reduce) will match up to the active parts of others. I'm not there yet, though sometimes I can have two tasks "away" at once without getting myself too hosed.

This past week I started to train on the "pizza" station, which really does a lot more than pizza. On the current menu, the station has two pizzas, a black bean burger, the portabella french dip, the quesadilla, part of the plating for the coconut tofu, a hot dessert, and a handful of childrens items. There is a lot of prep  and cleanup for this station of course, but the actual last minute cooking and plating isn't that hard.

The trickiest part is that you have to work in close concert with the line cook and the expediter to time all of the dishes for a table, and you don't have duplicate tickets to work with. So you have to use reminders to keep track of what dishes you have fired, with what special requests (vegan, extra sauces and so on), and which ones you have ordered but aren't making yet, waiting for the line.  Similarly you have to understand what information the line cook needs to be able to time their half of the dance.  (Me: "Flipping my burger",  Line: "Ok, dropping fries. Two minutes on the wellys.")

Right now this seems a bit intimidating or at least challenging, but I think with a few shifts under my belt I should be able to manage it. It clearly is a step up in difficulty from the pantry station where there is not much timing and you can refer to the tickets.

So that is the brain dump of where I'm at in this process. I'm getting exactly the experience I was looking for: spending time in a professional kitchen, seeing what makes it tick, finding out if I have the ability and desire to be a part of it, doing the physical work, enjoying the folks, learning lots about food... and having a great time.

October 26, 2007

Phyllo Wrapped Feta and Chard with a Citrus and Olive Salad

Phyllo Wrapped Feta and Chard with a Citrus and Olive Salad
Phyllo Wrapped Feta and Chard with a Citrus and Olive Salad

One of the really cool things about working at Cafe Flora is the open menu, where any employee can propose seasonal dishes to be added to the quarterly menu, and then a manager's meeting selects the best ones. The picture above is an item I've been testing for the winter. The phyllo dough is filled with feta, swiss chard, and seasoned with Ras El Hanout, which gives it a slow warming burn along with complex sweet spices. The salad is simply mandarin orange, pickled onions, blood olives, and parsley with a citrus rosemary dressing, and I've got some Zatar on the plate for a little extra color and flavor. I took it in for an initial tasting by the folks in the kitchen yesterday and I think it went over well.

This was kind of fun for me because for some reason I've never used phyllo (aka filo) dough before. I don't know why not. I think the recipes always sounded a little fussy, like it was going to fall apart and you had to be so careful to keep it covered and so on. Not so, it was actually very easy and forgiving. If it crumbles a little, you just kind of roll around it and no worries!

October 24, 2007

Seattlest + Last Week For South 47 Farm

Produce at South 47 Farm in Redmond, WA
Produce at South 47 Farm in Redmond, WA

Many thanks to Dan over at Seattlest for the kind article about the blog and my internship! They are definitely the site to watch if you want a broad perspective and absolutely up to the minute news of what is going on in our fair city.

The pictures above and below are from South 47 Farm over in Redmond. If you are looking for a little less commercial vibe to go pick pumpkins, and an all organic farm, this is the place to go. They close Oct. 31st this year so hurry out and do the corn maze (for bigger kids, it takes awhile), pick some pumpkins, and buy the last of the seasons' vegetables.

We took Mini-Me out there for their wonderful Farm Tots program which always includes a quick educational talk, arts and crafts, petting the pygmy goats, picking some produce (this week it was a sugar pumpkin), and a hayride, all for $7 lousy bucks. You can't beat that with a stick, but there are only two days left, the last one of the year is this Friday, 10/26.

Hayride at South 47 Farm
Hayride at South 47 Farm

October 19, 2007

My First Week Working At Cafe Flora

Cafe Flora, Seattle, Washington
Cafe Flora, Seattle, Washington

I've always had a desire to work in professional kitchens, but other than a few months over 20 years ago at Green Gulch Farm (in Marin county, part of the San Francisco Zen Center), I haven't done it. So I'm taking a few months off from my day job to intern and see if it is something I really enjoy. The folks at Cafe Flora, the much-loved Seattle vegetarian institution, have been incredibly kind to let me work there and learn the ropes.

My first night I worked the pantry station. Pantry is responsible for all of the cold food that we serve: making a few different green salads, a soba noodle salad, a (vegetarian) pate plate, cheese plates, and plating and saucing all of the desserts. I was trained by T. who was in her last few nights on the job before moving on. She was great at getting me up to speed. After watching her make a few salads she let me try it and it went ok. The main thing is to have your station set up logically, so when you go to make a dish, all of the ingredients and utensils you are going to need are already gathered together. That way you aren't likely to forget anything.

The good feeling is when you get a nice rhythm and routine going. For example, here's how I make a Caesar salad:

  • ticket hits the printer, check it for any special requests (to go, dressing on side, split, vegan, substitutions, etc.) and whether it is small or large
  • put on gloves
  • grab a cold plate from the middle reach in and put it on the counter
  • grab the bowl and tongs from the other reach in cooler and fill it with the right amount of romaine
  • add croutons
  • grab the drip-cut pitcher with the Caesar dressing, pour a healthy amount on the greens, toss them with tongs, and mound on the plate
  • return the bowl to the cooler
  • top with fried capers and parmesan
  • wipe the rim of the plate
  • slide it to the server pick up area and tear the ticket
  • clean up any mess

It sounds like a lot to remember but it is actually easy because each step leads you to the next. You don't want to have to think, it should just be like tying your shoes. You don't question it and do it in a different sequence the next time unless it is intentional because you think you might have found a more efficient way. At the same time, you do want to use your head to figure out what order to do things in when you get busy, making multiples of the same salad at once, or doing several salads and then several desserts for example.

The next night I worked with T. again but I made most of the plates and she helped out by bringing backup ingredients from the kitchen. Today I graduated to running the station by myself, coming in early in the morning to prep and set up, doing all the plates for lunch, and then taking inventory, re-icing everything and cleaning up to hand off to the evening pantry cook before I left. It was a good feeling to know I could handle the station myself for a moderately busy lunch. We'll see how I do when we are slammed and I'm getting five tickets at a time! 

Pantry at Cafe Flora is unusual because it is in the dining room. It has been fun for me to be in the front of the house, paying attention to how the servers do their job and the very pleasant atmosphere. I definitely have a different awareness as an employee instead of as a customer.

One thing I've understood much more clearly this week is how much a restaurant depends on good prep to serve good food. Every day there is a general kitchen prep list as well as specific lists for some of the individual stations. There are yam fries to be cut, stocks and sauces and soups to make, vegetables to be cleaned and chopped, cheese to be grated and portioned and so forth. And each of those things needs to be done with attention to detail, to make sure that the end result you are going to serve is delicious. It is also critical to be organized and know how much you need of every item so that you neither run out nor need to waste it, and to have everything properly labeled and placed so you can find it.

I've also worked a couple shifts just doing general prep instead of pantry. There is a definite learning curve and everyone has been really patient with me, happily telling me where to find ingredients and equipment and showing me exactly how the prep of each item should be done. We have recipes of course, but it really helps to have someone show you how the chanterelles should be cut for the risotto cakes, or the safest way to drain a huge stockpot. It feels great to be getting to the point where I can look at the list and see several things I can do confidently, and then be able to ask for an overview of a few more.

Anyhow that is the report after my first 5 shifts. I'm hoping to have the opportunity to help out and train on some of the other stations, so I'll keep you all posted about what I'm learning.

YOUR AUTHOR

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