Summer Squash and Portobello Mushroom Vegetarian Lasagna - Recipe

My previous spinach and ricotta vegetarian lasagna recipe has consistently been one of the most popular on the site, so I thought I'd share another variation with you. This versions adds layers of thinly sliced summer squash (or zucchini) and portobello (aka portabella, portabello) mushrooms.

The key to making this lasagna great is that both vegetables are thoroughly sauteed first to maximize flavor and minimize any sort of watery outbursts. See the picture at right - maybe I went a bit too far, but you really want to caramelize the surfaces.

When I told my brother I was making this, he asked a very good question: "Are portobellos even relevant anymore?". I knew what he meant. They are one of the most often overused and abused cliches in the vegetarian repertoire, because they are thought to be a good stand-in for meat. I probably don't cook with them more than a couple of times per year, but I think that properly prepared they have a good flavor and texture. I like to lay the caps down flat and slice them on the bias, a trick I learned at Cafe Flora while making untold hundreds of Wellingtons and French Dips.

Summer Squash and Portobello Mushroom Vegetarian Lasagna
Serves at least 8

• 6 medium crookneck or other summer squash or zucchini, sliced lengthwise, 1/8" thick
• 6 large portobello mushroom caps, sliced 1/8" thick on a bias
• extra virgin olive oil for sauteeing
• 1 lb. ricotta
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 large (28 oz.) cans plain tomato sauce
• zest from 1 lemon
• 1.5 pounds no-boil lasagna noodles (or regular lasagna noodles, par-boiled)
  
• salt, pepper to taste
• 1 lb. grated mozzarella
• 4 oz. grated parmesan cheese

1. In a large skillet over high, fry the squash and portobello mushrooms in olive oil. Fry each in a single layer, using as many batches as needed. Flip and cook both sides until well browned. Remove to paper towels and season with salt.
2. Season the ricotta along with nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, then beat in the eggs.
3. Saute the onion & garlic  in a good amount of olive oil, add the tomato sauce and lemon zest, simmer 5 minutes, salt to taste
4. Oil an 11" x 13" pan (at least 2" deep). Build up layers of noodles, sauce, squash and mushrooms, ricotta mixture, and mozzarella. Be sure to get the noodles quite wet if they are the no-boil type and need plenty of moisture. You'll have about 4 layers total. I do sauce on every layer, but ricotta on some and mozzarella on others. Do what you feel.
   
5. Finish with a heavy layer of mozzarella and the parm, mixed together.
6. Bake at 375 F., covering with tin foil part of the time if needed to avoid overbrowning. It is done when internal temp is say 170 F. (check a few spots) or when you can easily pierce the noodles with a fork, and the sauce is bubbling around the sides. Don't overcook and let the noodles get soggy.
7. If the cheese isn't crispy and brown enough, finish judiciously with the broiler.
8. Allow to rest at least 15 minutes before serving so it has time to set up a bit.

Quick Chana Masala with Mushrooms - Chickpea Curry - Recipe

Chana Masala with Mushrooms

Chana Masala (spicy chickpeas) is one of those ten dishes you will find at pretty much every Indian restaurant in America. You can understand why: it is inexpensive to prepare, delicious, healthy and satisfying. The mass prepared versions are usually pretty good, but you can make a similar dish at home and enjoy fresher, more vibrant flavors.

If you have the ingredients on hand and use canned chickpeas, you can make this chana masala in just 20 minutes. I find that canned chickpeas are often undercooked and a little crunchy, so if I go that route, the first thing I do is put them on to simmer while I prepare everything else.

The mushrooms add a little textural counterpoint without being a main focus of the dish. You can certainly omit them or use a different vegetable to suit your needs.

Chana Masala with Mushrooms
Vegetarian, vegan if you use vegetable oil, and gluten-free
Serves 2 as a main course with basmati rice or 4 as part of a larger Indian meal

• 1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (15 oz. can, drained and rinsed, or better, home-cooked)
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil (or clarified butter / ghee if you have it)
• 2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 medium onion, small dice
• 1 medium tomato, cored, small dice (canned is an option)
• 2/3 cups white mushrooms, quartered or thickly sliced
• 1 small, hot red chili pepper, thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon fresh grated turmeric, or 2 teaspoons dry
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 pinch ground cloves
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon salt
• for tempering: 1 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
• for garnish: cilantro

1. If using canned chickpeas and, drain and rinse them, and put them in a saucepan with water to cover, then bring to a boil and simmer while you get everything else going. This will improve their texture. You can do this in the microwave too. Or skip this step completely if your chickpeas are already pleasantly soft.
2. In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over a medium-high flame. Add the mustard, fennel, cumin and coriander seeds. Cook for about 10-20 seconds until the mustard seeds begin to pop. Immediately add the garlic, onion and tomato.
3. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes until the liquid is mostly gone and everything is browning.
4. Add the mushrooms and the drained chickpeas, the hot pepper, turmeric, cinnamon, cloves and cayenne pepper, lemon juice, a teaspoon of salt, and a cup or so of water, so it is kind of soupy.
5. Cook uncovered over a medium-low flame for about 15 minutes, until the sauce begins to thicken. Taste and adjust seasoning. Does it need more salt? More lemon juice? A bit more cayenne?
6. Finish for the texture you want - you can see how I like it in the picture above. Then in a separate skillet, heat the last tablespoon of oil over a high flame and fry the mustard seeds until they pop, just a few seconds. This is called tempering, and it is a great way to add a final layer of flavor.  Toss the contents of that skillet over the chickpeas and serve, with the cilantro for garnish.

Triple Smoky Macaroni and Cheese - Recipe

 

The last time we talked about mac and cheese, it was this double-crust version which is pretty great and crunchy. But ever since a friend brought us a superb traditional mac to have in the freezer after our first kid came was born, I've had in mind to revisit the classic. The parts that I especially liked were the macaroni noodles (instead of penne which I usually use) and the breadcrumb top.

I needed to feed both kids and adults, so I made two batches. I simply made one big pot of bechamel base and then divided it into two before adding cheese and spices. The kid portion was straight cheddar and mozzarella, and it was darn good.

For the grownups, I was inspired by an incredible oak-smoked cheddar that I purchased at DeLaurentis in Pike Place Market. I reinforced that flavor with smoked paprika and chipotle pepper. If you can't get the smoked cheddar, smoked mozzarella would be good too. I was very happy with the results. The smoke was definitely present but not overpowering, and a good match for a little chili heat. On a warm afternoon with a cold beer on the deck, life seemed pretty great.

Let's talk breadcrumbs. Homemade. Gotta do it. That stuff in the cans is pretty awful. Much too powdery and flavorless. Plus homemade breadcrumbs are a great way to use up leftover, slightly stale bread. Mario Batali gave me permission to leave the crust on, though others consider that abhorrent. You make the call. Once you get in the habit of making them at home, you'll want to use them all the time on pastas, simple vegetable dishes, gratins... any place you want to garnish with a little crunch. I like to include garlic when I saute them for an extra hit of flavor.

You can also make this macaroni and cheese ahead, and refrigerate it, which makes it very convenient for dinner parties. Just wait to top with the breadcrumbs until the last minute, and allow additional baking time to come up to temperature.

Triple-Smoky Macaroni and Cheese
Vegetarian; not vegan nor gluten-free
Serves 6-8 as a main course

• 1 pound elbow macaroni
• 8 tablespoons butter, divided
• 4 cups cubed bread, preferably rustic, preferably dry/stale (but not moldy!)
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup all purpose-flour
• 4 cups whole milk
• 1/2 onion, finely diced
• 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
• 1 teaspoon rosemary, minced
• 1 chipotle pepper (canned in adobo sauce), minced, or 1/4 cup Frontera chipotle sauce
• 1 teaspoon oregano
• 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg (preferably freshly grated)
• 8 ounces smoked cheddar (or other smoked cheese), grated
• 8 ounces mozzarella (not fresh mozzarella), grated
• salt to taste

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Boil the macaroni according to package directions, draining when it is just becoming al dente. This will bake more in the oven, so don't overcook it. Drain and toss with 2 tablespoons butter.
2. If the bread isn't fully dried, toast it on a tray in the toaster oven, toaster or skillet, and then allow to cool. Grind in a food processor until you have fairly coarse crumbs. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium heat, add the garlic, a pinch of salt, and the breadcrumbs. Cook, tossing frequently, until lightly browned. Set aside to cool. At this point people will be crowding your kitchen, asking "what's for dinner?" because of the smell of garlic butter.
3. Preheat oven to 350 and grease a large baking dish.
4. In a medium saucepan, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat. Sprinkle in the flour and whisk pretty constantly for 3 minutes. Whisk in the milk. Add the onion, smoked paprika, rosemary, chipotle, oregano, and nutmeg. Simmer, whisking occasionally until it begins to thicken.
5. Gradually whisk in the grated cheeses, stirring each batch to incorporate.
6. Taste the sauce, and adjust the seasoning to your preference. It will probably need a little salt, but maybe not too much depending on the cheeses. Add more spiciness if desired. Remember that the sauce should be pretty intense because it is going to be diluted by a full pound of pasta.
7. Stir the macaroni into the sauce. Pour the macaroni into the prepared pan.
8. Top with the garlicky breadcrumbs (you might not need all of them).
9. Bake for about 30 minutes, until you can see bubbling around the sides and the breadcrumbs are nicely browned.
10. Let stand for 5-10 minutes (to set) and serve.