Molly Moon's Ice Cream - Seattle, WA - Review

Coffee ice cream with vanilla-bean caramel sauce at Molly Moon's in Seattle

Anyone who has spent time in the Midwest or on the East Coast will agree, Seattle is not a great ice cream town. So when I heard that Molly Moons in Wallingford was making the good stuff on site with mostly organic ingredients and interesting flavors, it was on my radar right away. Then when Dana Cree, a wonderful pastry chef and co-author of Tasting Menu was leaving Veil to work at Molly's, I couldn't wait any longer.

My wife and I tried the coffee, chocolate, and salted caramel ice creams. The coffee was my favorite, made with beans from Vivace which may be the greatest roaster in America. (I know, I'll probably get some hate mail from someone who is a fan of a place I've never heard of that roasts their beans one at a time with forceps and a bunsen burner. Go ahead, I can handle it). You can see that scoop up above, with caramel sauce. Sarina objected to the slight grittiness of the very fine coffee grounds remaining in the ice cream, but it didn't bother me.

Honestly, I felt the chocolate was just good, not chocolate reverie inducing. And we both thought that the salted caramel was out of balance. I adore salt in my caramel, but this just seemed to go too far. And the salt was very evenly distributed in the mix, so every bite tasted the same. I think less salt and mixed in at the last moment so you get the occasional capricious flake of sea salt would be better.

Dana's toppings were absolutely stellar, and a great treat for only $1 per serving. The aforementioned vanilla bean caramel sauce was rich and buttery and neither too runny nor chewy. The seasonal compote achieved a texture I've never come close to, somehow thick and consistent without being at all gummy, and no sacrifice in fresh fruit flavor. Amazingly good.

Molly's is definitely worth a visit, and I'll be back to try some of those other interesting flavors, like the Thai Iced Tea and Balsamic Strawberry. At just $3 for a scoop and $4.50 for a double, it is an affordable and very fun treat - especially for us transplants that miss having good ice cream in every neighborhood.

p.s. kudos to Molly for using organic dairy, lots of local ingredients, and all compostable serving bowls and utensils!

Restaurant Review: Jasmine Provincial Vietnamese Restaurant

This is my entry in the Seattle Restaurant Review 360 that Gastrognome is hosting this month.

I'd been intrigued by Jonathan Kauffann's review of Jasmine Provincial Vietnamese Restaurant in the Seattle Weekly awhile back, so when Naomi named this her pick for a 360, I was more than ready to jump in.

The Weekly review focused on comparing Jasmine to another Seattle favorite, Tamarind Tree. I certainly see the point of the comparison. Both restaurants aim to bring an upscale feel to a cuisine that in America is usually served in more of a down-home neighborhood style. Their decor is sharper and more modern, and the food more varied than at your average Vietnamese restaurant. I don't doubt that Jasmine's owner's paid close attention to Tamarind Tree's success in designing their room and menu.

That said, I don't think that is the major story here. Jasmine's food stands on its own, with some very interesting and well prepared dishes.

As a vegetarian, I was a bit concerned when I started flipping through the menu. Not one veggie dish appeared at first, not even a spring roll or a mango salad. But then at the back of the menu, all of the vegetarian dishes had been conveniently gathered under a single heading of about 20 choices. Even better, they seem to understand what vegetarian means. No sneaky shrimp or pork, and not even fish sauce!

The first item we had was the steamed rice paper you see above. I was picturing the normal thin rice paper that is used to wrap a fresh spring roll. This rice paper was much thicker, and steamed to a pillowy, warm softness. The server tells me the they make it from scratch.

We piled the wrappers with the fried yams, tofu, bean sprouts, basil and crispy shallots you see below, then dipped them in a soy-based sauce. I'm a sucker for dishes with a wide range of textures and combined fresh and fried flavors. While working through the pile of fried yams, I recoiled for a moment at the sight of a whole shrimp. Then I realized it was a pseudo-shrimp made of taro. It was very tasty though of course it wouldn't fool a pescetarian.

Our next course was the lemongrass tofu you see below. I consider this to be a benchmark item for vegetarian Vietnamese cuisine. It is often used as a component in other dishes in place of meat so you can end up eating a lot of it. Frequently it is underflavored. This one was excellent, far better than the one at Tamarind Tree. The lemongrass was delivered in the form of almost a wet rub, with garlic and ginger and chilis. The only problem was that it didn't come out hot enough. My guess is that the cook made it at the same time as the appetizer and it sat too long.

Our final dish was the coconut rice below. Shards of fresh grated coconut provided lots of flavor. Not many restaurants go to that much trouble. I didn't think the peas and especially the carrots added much. Still, this was very tasty.

Overall I think Jasmine can stake a claim as one of the top Vietnamese restaurants in Seattle. I really noticed that the kitchen doesn't take shortcuts. The dishes are made with that extra bit of attention and hand work that makes all of the difference. Combined with the attractive, modern, atmosphere, and good service, and I think you've got a winner.

Review: Punjab Sweets

Thali with Bhindi, Chana, Mattar Paneer and a Gulab Jamun

Iqbal and Gurmit Dha and their daughter Harpreet Giil have done something terrible, and I'll never forgive them. Their vegetarian restaurant, Punjab Sweets, offers my favorite Indian snacks, entrees, and sweets. And it isn't in walking distance of my house. I find this to be deeply cruel.

Seriously, I'm always on the lookout for the Indian snacks known as chaat. I love them all, but my favorite is the Pani Puri (also known as Golgoppa) that you see below. A plate of little crispy fried shells is served with a savory filling, and an intensely flavored dipping "water" with lots of tamarind, mint and spices. You poke a hole in the top of a shell, fill it up, dip it in the sauce and hurry it to your mouth before you douse your shirt. The versions I'm most familiar with include potatoes and chickpeas in the filling. Punjab Sweets does a wonderful, more minimalist version with just potatoes. Their sauce is the freshest I've ever tasted.

Pani Puri aka Golgoppa

I wanted to try as many of the entrees as possible, so Harpreet suggested the thali you see in the first picture. I chose the bhindi (okra), matter paneer (fresh cheese cubes and peas), and the chana (chickpeas), which were served with basmati rice, homemade yogurt, homemade pickled carrots, and a gulab jamun for dessert.

These were not the dumbed-down curries that you find on lunch buffets throughout our fair city. Each looked alive and fresh, and had a distinct flavor. The curries at Punjab Sweets are not generally mild. Be prepared for a decent level of heat that complements the other tastes.

Then there is the matter of dessert. As you can see below, you are going to have a difficult decision on your hands. My recommendation is to ask for a mixed box of Harpreet's favorites so you can try them all.

The sweets here are better than the best I had in Delhi, including the famous Haldiram. Many Indian sweets are based on flavored cream reduced to the consistency of fudge, and chickpea flour (besan). Flavorings include shredded carrots, pistachios and other nuts, rosewater, cardamom and other sweet spices. As with everything else at Punjabi Sweets, the desserts are a cut well above average, with smooth consistencies and well balanced flavors. I find them less tooth-achingly sugary than other shops, and that allows the caramelized brown-butter flavors to shine. A box would make a terrific hostess gift or an interesting platter at a party.

The Eponymous Sweets

Can you tell I love this place? All of the food at Punjab Sweets is 100% vegetarian, so that is a major bonus. And everything is prepared with obvious love and care, using first-quality ingredients and no shortcuts. I highly recommend a visit.

Details:

Punjab Sweets
23617 104th Ave SE C
Kent, WA 98031
(253) 859-3236
Open daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m